Trying to out-do Phil, I found this baby on bookface last week. I've taken a shine to
these Husqvarna mowers and I'm getting to know the various quirks and issues.
It ran, but no power and smoked.... hmmmm
It's a YTH2448T. B&S 24 Intek and Torque Tough Transaxle. Nice machine.
It was loaded in the back of my truck and I handed the guy the asking price of $150.00.
Today , I got to tinkering and pulled the valve covers.
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| See anything that may be an issue?? |
These motors, from what I have gleaned from the internet like to over heat to the point that the
valve guides move. Usually the exhaust one. Aaaaaand... YUP, slid out right to...
the..... bottom.... of.... the ....... retainer.
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| Hmmm, no wonder the push rod is bent. |
I'll pull both heads. Check the guides and peen then aluminum. I also read that some guys
have added set screws thru the side wall. Not sure how far I'll go. Some more research
before reinstalling. I found used heads on ebay and new ones are available as a kit with
gaskets and all. Decisions decisions........
I would check whatever the bottom of that pushrod uses to interact with the cam. Whether it be a lifter of sorts or what have you and make sure that stuff is all perfect. Make sure the cam didn't jump timing. If that is all good, moving forward might make sense. If not, then I like the Kawasaki engines over the Briggs, but I am not prepared to back up that statement. Some of those Huskies have a 14 gauge welded steel mower deck, which seems like color TV in my book. If the head rebuild is the road you choose, Permatex makes a Sleeve Retainer. Might be the ticket for the valve guides, plus red threadlocker on a set screw should make it not want to move again.
ReplyDeleteHad it happen on 2 different engines. It's from overheating and the different expansion cooeficients between the steel of the valve guide and the aluminium head. These air cooled mower engines are not designed for mowing in high temp areas of the country or for mowing 9 to 10 months of the year like we do in Texas. If it's over about 90 to 95 degrees outside you have to shut it down. Trouble with used heads is you cant tell what kind of temp conditions they've been run in. That said, for a $150 mower I'd probably get used ones and just deal with it. The set screw idea sounds good in theory but it also sounds like an opportunity to screw up a head so be careful.
ReplyDeleteI have a Husqvarna also, for about 7 or 8 yr (maybe more), not sure of the engine though. I like it mostly. But, do not get the mower deck stuck on something, if it goes a little out of kilter the mower won't move, have to shove it off whatever. I have problems with the front wheels coming off. The inserts around the little axle come loose and then the wheel is off ( I know, did not explain myself very well).
ReplyDeleteAnymore I think just about everything is cheap chinese shit or based on it. You might try following or watch James Condon. This guy is really good with small engines of all sorts. Hope you get it running again like new! https://www.youtube.com/user/jcondon2007
ReplyDeletefollowing or watch James Condon.
DeleteExcellent mechanic. Totally badass on generators, too.
Bookmarked. Got a siezed 3.5KW Honda generator I need to get running.
DeleteI'll just consider myself officially outdone thankyouverymuch!
ReplyDeleteHell of a score there buddy.
$150????
ReplyDeleteI think you scored a winner
I have just replaced the entire motor on the Ariens single cylinder version of that mower. Two things happened to the old motor, one the head gasket sprang a leak at the weak spot between the long separation bolts on either side of the valve section and two, before I could replace the gasket (which I had purchased) the con rod bearing retainer lower failed and punched a 3 inch hole in the side of the block.
ReplyDeleteSo..... I have the pushrods that look identical, have a head that is fine as far as I can tell (the leak always happens on the block side, can see the black traces).
If that is the Briggs and Stratton engine, chances are that they used the same exact head and push rods on the single and the dual piston versions.
Let me know if you want pieces parts. I am disassembling the old engine to do a forensic on it just for grins. Head and rods already out.
tehterrapod at that intrusive email starting with 7th letter company dot com
the con rod bearing retainer lower failed and punched a 3 inch hole in the side of the block.
DeleteJust Look at the time and money that saved you on changing the gasket!
I bought a replacement John Deere last year because the mower drive mechanism finally wore out. The original was from 2001 and was the primary tool for maintaining 5 A in deep South Texas. I bought another Deere based on the mostly problem-free 20 years I got out of the first one. All that praise for the Deere did have a price; new, the replacement was about THIRTY times what you paid for the damaged Husqvarna.
ReplyDeleteI bought a John Deere 48”er to replace my Poulan. I rebuilt the deck on the Poulan, but it started eating belts, 1 per mowing. As someone pointed out here, the price of a deck is a substantial percentage of a new machine, and the mower was 12 years old, But, Irish got a steal on that Husqvarna.
DeleteYeah, $27 for the gasket set and 798 for the new engine ;-) But one cannot complain too much, new mower is pushing near $2800 so making old one new again for 798 is a bargain. Could have done as you and bought one used for 500 running, but then the question is always "for how long". .Engine comes with a 2 year warranty.
DeleteThe bent pushrod can also be caused by gummed or carboned up valves. You can probably get away with straitening the rods and pulling the head off to go through it to make sure the valve guides haven't moved. It is a good idea to stake them. It seems to be an issue with the 24 HP Intek as it happened to my mother's John Deere mower. The head was gunked up with carbon and I was able to straiten the pushrods. I checked my older 22 HP Intek that has twice the hours and it was not a problem. BTW: my mower gets synthetic 15w40 and alcohol free 90 octane gas. My mother's mower is not serviced regularly and gets regular gas w/10% alcohol.
ReplyDeleteI got my GT225 Deere mower the same way as Irish did, with a moved guide and bent PR. Imagine my surprise when my lawn and garden guy got out a lead hammer and straightened the rods. He did mention that you can't do that with Briggs or Kawasaki engines. The rods are smaller and thinner, but heat treated more. They crack if you try to straighten them. He said mine was one of the last good Kohler engines.
DeleteOnce the guides move in the head, you can get them back in place, but they won't stay long. I peened the metal around the guide and got a few years out of it. Two years ago, I ran it in 90+ heat and the guide moved again. This time holding the valve open. I pulled the head and replaced it with a good clean pulled one of of eBay.
If it goes again, I'm pulling the 16 HP single and putting a 25 HP v twin Kohler in its place.
Leigh
Whitehall, NY
If it was me, I'd go as cheap as possible. The stamped mower deck will need replacing sooner than you realize, and the replacement cost is a substantial amount toward a new mower. That, and the best deal will be taking a hickey on labor and selling it for some profit on materials.
ReplyDeletemustie1 is a great youtuber who works on small engines. in example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSexPaNNGE4
ReplyDeleteChicken tractor,bunny tractor, duck tractor....hint,hint... Hard times coming!!!
ReplyDeleteGo on you-tube and look up Taryl Fixes All. He owns a mower shop and has tons of how-to videos. The guy has saved me lots of money. He shows how to fix just what happened to your mower
ReplyDeleteOnly use 100 % gasoline. Add a little Marvin's Marvelous Mystery Oil to the oil.
ReplyDeleteNever buy a 4 stroke husky.
ReplyDeleteTwo strokes rule.
Did your old mower give up the ghost?
ReplyDeleteNo, he collects Husky mowers like I collect Taurus' (Tauruses, Tauri, ?????).
DeleteLeigh
Whitehall, NY