For now the hydrant is fixed. The last little leak was repaired with Water Weld and Flex tape.
I re-cleaned the seam of the cast iron head where it meets the galvi tube and added a bead of WW and wrapped it tight with the tape.
I know some of you mentioned replacing the unit. At this time that is impossible. It's located in the barn. And it's 6-7 feet deep.
I'm not prepared to have the driveway look like this:
Here is the layout of the water system. The well feeds the house and it appears they tapped off the feed and added 3 hydrants. There is no shut off. For scale I left the truck in this photo of the watering system. The well is located behind a shed and it feeds three of the same style hydrant. We also have no idea of how they laid the line to feed each one. There is ledge in certain areas.
Leaky hydrant #3 is in the barn.
After spending some time on the internet I found Yard Hydrant Made Easy. It looks like a pretty slick way to go. My plans are to purchase one of these units and a new model hydrant plus the shut off kit. There is plenty of room to excavate #1 and install the new spigot and shut off. Then I can isolate the system and not affect the house. Any other product suggestions are welcomed. If all goes well, and it won't, Murphy ya know, I will move on to #2.
They use a well pitiless adapter as the device that lets you pull it up and out for repair. Slick idea.
ReplyDeleteI'd still put an isolation valve at the house so that you can simply shut off the hydrants from tiy basement (or wherever they tap off from you house water lines). That would be first on my list. then do the rest.
ReplyDeleteWell, looks like you have it firmly handled and a plan for future "fixes". Nice work, Irish.
ReplyDeleteQuestion, are you *sure* there's no shutoff for just that leg at the well site? Dumb question, I know, but just curious... 'cause I've often overlooked the patently obvious a time or two. Or three. Or...
... way, way over your valve issue/obsession~! ... move on ... do something interesting to make amends for the brain fart in blogging or aka... how to run off your followers... seriously
ReplyDeleteHey Jackass, why don't you take a moment and look up the definition of a WEBLOG before you start running your mouth?
DeleteIf Irish wants to post anything that crosses his mind he can do that BECAUSE IT'S HIS BLOG!
You are a self centered little asshole the way I see it and you can take a running fuck at yourself.
Phil, save energy. Use fewer words, like this:
Delete"Piss off, you wanker!"
YMMV
;P
Fuck you. GO elsewhere. No one cares what you think you small, whiney, childish, self entitled, tiny dicked, pencil necked weasel.
DeletePhil. DOCTOR PHIL!! Man, if we could get a bunch more of that in society we wouldn't have a bunch of whiny self centered metrosexual man-hours walking around. Get 'em Phil!!!
ReplyDeleteOK...Here goes! Parts are delineated from exploded diagram of unit: C-5, C-3, etc.)
ReplyDelete1. Detach whole top unit from push/pull rod.
2. Cut 1.5 inches from pipe (or cut just below existing threads).
3. Thread pipe to fit new hydrant assembly.
4. Cut push/pull rod to appropriate length, if necessary.
5. Screw on new hydrant unit.
6. Tighten new unit on push/pull rod.
Thanks anon. The problem is the tube size is very similar to EMT. Very thin wall. I have a picture but I don't want to post anymore about leaky valves. We have a complainer ^^^^ above
DeleteThank you so much for posting all this information. It is going to come in handy very soon.
ReplyDeleteP.S. this is the first time using the giggle account thingie, so please pardon or delete multiple tries. Thank you, Jean
Something we use in the natural gas dept. (and probably water too) is using the old pipe as a casing to run a smaller liner to the user interface.
ReplyDeleteIf that old pipe is 1-3/4", you could fish a poly 1/2 " line and only need to dig where the 90's and Tees are.
Of course I don't know your exact situation...